3 Charly’s Angels in the home of the Big Five

3 Charly’s Angels in the home of the Big Five

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An interview with Simonetta

Warmth and a contagious energy emanating from a soul in perpetual motion: Simonetta, our travel designer, gives us an interview to tell you about her latest African trip.

It was a trip that spanned three generations, with three women passionate about Africa who headed to the heart of the preserved wilderness of South Tanzania. This is an article full of surprises, emotions and unexpected twists that will transport you to the as yet unexplored reserves of the African continent that will make your roar with excitement!

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First of all, why did you choose South Tanzania?

“South Tanzania was a natural choice for us as its unexplored reserves are quieter than those in the north of the country. Here you experience nature untamed and rich in unspoilt beauty. It is the real, secret and authentic Tanzania, the perfect destination for three women passionate about Africa.”

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​​Where did your shared passion for Africa come from? “My love of Africa dates back to my childhood. I must have been 10 when my mother brought a lion cub home that belonged to a wildlife photographer. He left it with us from time to time when he was away with work. But we were so attached to this lion cub that it ended up staying at our house for six months. We couldn’t keep it any longer than that though. We were heartbroken to see it go. A little while later, we took on a Somalian nanny. I think she really gave us the bug for Africa. Our passion from Africa comes from these memories that are deeply rooted in our family history, which became the favourite continent for 3 generations: me, Simonetta (48), my mother (83) and my daughter (21). And so the idea for this intergenerational trip was born out of this passion for Africa that links us together “

What was the highlight of the trip for you? “There were so many. To be truthful, there were highlights in each safari, day and moment. But if I had to choose one, it would be coming face to face with a family of young lions in the Selous Game Reserve, no doubt because of my fascination with lions. When you find yourself a metre or a metre and a half from lions, you feel like you are discovering your inner child, standing completely alone in front of animal life and becoming at one with nature. You feel moved, and calm. You forget everything. Beyond this powerful feeling, what left a profound mark on all three of us was finding ourselves faced with several generations of lions. There were two males, some cubs and several females, three of which clearly stood out from the group. We were all reminded of ourselves, it was like a nod to us.”

​What gave you the greatest thrill? “That would be an unusual encounter with the pachyderms of the Ruaha National Park during a nighttime safari. First, we drove with the headlights switched off before stopping right in the middle of the reserve and the night. Then we started to hear branches moving more and more in the trees. The elephants had arrived. They were all around us. Hearing and smelling the bush evokes a truly extraordinary feeling. Then the ranger lit the torch, which the mother elephant who was standing three metres away from us really didn’t like. She started to trumpet with all her might in the middle of the night. She was in a real temper. Even her babies, who were visibly already very tenacious, seemed to be angry with us. They seemed like giants to us. We kept a low profile, as we were scared out of our wits!”

Did anything leave you feeling blessed? “Without a doubt the trek with the chimpanzees in the Mahale Mountains National Park. The lodge is located at the heart of a beautiful unspoilt reserve that can only be accessed on a little brush plane then by boat. You are far away from everything there, in a virgin land that is home to one of the last colonies of wild chimpanzees in the world. The crystal waters of Lake Tanganyika are before you, and a mountain covered in thundering waterfalls is at your back. Excitement mounts as you enter the forest. You are straining to detect the slightest movement, the smallest sign, the quietest cry, and the smallest movement of leaves in the trees. And then suddenly, you see them everywhere. They know you are there and stop what they are doing and look you in the eye. They seem like a family. And you don’t move a muscle. It’s as if time is suspended in a waking dream. The walking safari teaches you an unforgettable lesson in humility.”

What was the strongest sensation you experienced? “Diving and swimming with whale sharks is a formidable sensation! You can find them off the coast of Mafia Island in the waters of Tanzania’s first marine park. Even from the boat you can clearly see the playful whale sharks who glide alongside the boat and raise their heads to catch the plankton. While my mother watched the sea giants from the boat, my daughter and I threw ourselves into the water. Each time we dived down using our masks and snorkels, we found ourselves face to face with a giant marine creature. There must have been 40 or 50 of them of all sizes and shapes around us. We were entranced by their silhouettes, movements, speckled skin and infinite gentleness. It was a world away from Jaws!”

What was the strongest emotion you felt?

“We were in our lodge, which was at the heart of the leopard’s natural habitat. A female leopard had just chosen the bungalow next to ours to have her babies. It was both very touching and moving to see a mother leopard give birth just a few paces away from our bungalow. We can never thank Mother Nature and the mother leopard enough for this gift. In addition, we even got our daily dose of adrenaline, as we of course had to be careful not to disturb the leopard and her cubs. In the evening, the rangers took us around the lodge. It was an exclusive experience and a magical sight that only the private lodges in South Tanzania can offer. You feel totally immersed in untamed nature. It is literally Into the Wild”.

​​And the most fear you felt ?

“Contrary to all expectations, the scariest part of our trip to South Tanzania did not involve lions or leopards, but rather a beetle. It’s true! My daughter is absolutely terrified of beetles, so when she found one in the tent she started screaming blue murder. I immediately grabbed a glass to trap the (little) beast and removed it from the tent, but my daughter still needed a moment to recover. She was scared by how black the insect was and its huge size. My mother and I found it hilarious; it made us cry with laughter!… “

​​What was the most beautiful moment ?

“I chose this photo because I think it perfectly captures our three-generational trio and our passion for Africa. It’s a precious picture that will make us nostalgic for this unforgettable trip.”

What surprised you most?

“When you visit South Tanzania, you expect to find savannah, brush and the burnt lands of Africa. Against all expectations, we found ourselves surrounded by a variety of colours and unexpected landscapes. It’s not just yellow and gold; it’s also green, wooded and plentiful. The flowering trees of the Selous National Park and the crystal waters of Lake Tanganyika give you the impression of being in a tropical jungle rather than an inlet of the Indian Ocean. For my mother and my daughter, and even for me with my long experience of Africa, it was surprising and wondrous.”

Do you have a favourite place to stay ?

Our lodge in the Selous National Park was incredible. It’s an oasis of elegance, serenity and comfort set in the heart of a reserve as big as Switzerland. In this restricted location cut off from the rest of the world, luxury is everywhere. It is in the canvas tents that are spacious, open and perfectly integrated into their surroundings. It is in the showers where you can hear (or see, if you wish to) the grunting of the hippos that live in the lake just a stone’s throw away. It is also in the encounters you have there. The human dimension there is so strong that it entices you away from your accommodation. For example, the general manager of the lodge is passionate about the stars. At night, head to the garden and he will teach you the constellations with a glass in hand. There is no sound pollution, no bother, just sharing, wonder and the immensity of the heavenly canopy. It’s an extra touch of soul experiencing the bush under the light of the stars”.

Do you have any specific recommendations for travelers wanting to explore South Tanzania?

“Lots of people ask me what the best time to travel to South Tanzania is. I often say the dry season. But in reality, each season has its benefits. We went during the off-season, which was the beginning of the rainy season. It was a wonderful choice that we didn’t regret. The landscape was very green, and there were fewer people too. The feeling of having the park to yourself is truly priceless…”

Any last words?

“A lovely memory from the end of our trip should have the last word in this interview. We were getting ready to head for the airport when a family of cheetahs came to bid us goodbye. There were around ten of them, and they circled the vehicle just a few steps from the runway and settled down, completely at ease. It was as if they wanted to stop us leaving. It’s a moment I will never forget.”

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Autumn/winter collection  !!

Autumn/winter collection !!

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Leave the grey skies behind !

You could turn to light therapy lamps to beat the autumn and winter blues, or you could travel instead! Discover our six prescriptions to help you tackle the cold with a smile

The days are getting shorter, the temperatures are falling and the light is fading. When autumn shows its face, a holiday is the perfect treatment for the blues brought on by the cold weather. To help you leave the grey skies behind, Charly brings you the six best destinations to raise your spirits. Choose from a detox retreat in Portugal, a hunt for the Northern Lights in Iceland, sun seeking in Zanzibar or an adventure in the land of the Incas to vaccinate yourself against the cold.

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PORTUGAL – A weekend for some alone time with the ocean

You don’t always need to travel to the other side of the world to touch the end of it. This detox weekend in Portugal concocted by Charly’s team is the proof. You will wake up in a jewel of Portugal’s luxury hotel scene constructed facing the blue waves, ride the virgin ocean dunes, stride across the wild beaches and play in the invigorating ocean spray. The accommodation we have found to enchant you offers contemporary eco architecture, bohemian chic décor, a spa, organic meals from the kitchen garden and evenings to be spent cocooned in front of the fire. And the cherry on the pasteis? Sintra, Lisbon, Obidos and the vineyards of the Setúbal Peninsula are only a couple of miles away. It is a refuge for those in the know that the hedonistic aesthetes would like to keep secret.

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PERU – A Peruvian adventure to pay an enthusiastic homage to Pachamama

Seek out the mysterious city of Machu Picchu, get to know the condors in the Colca Canyon, decrypt the enigmatic Nazca Lines (or try to), dream on the banks of Lake Titicaca, sail the Amazon in a dugout canoe and hike in the Cordillera Blanca. If that isn’t Peru for you, it certainly looks like it! The spring-like climate of the high plateaux and the low tourist numbers make autumn the season of choice for an adventure in the footsteps of the Incas. There is no point waiting until “el condor pasa” (the condor passes) to set sail for Peru this autumn. As the Peruvians would say, sigan adelante (go ahead)!

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SULTANATE OF OMAN – A luxurious Omani camp for a Bedouin glamping experience

Would you like to sleep tucked between the majestic dunes of Wahiba Sands? On a white sandy beach? On the Jebel Shams mountain? Or in a Wadi sprinkled with emerald blue pools? You can choose the location for your temporary campsite and experience the nomadic lifestyle of the Bedouins of the Sultanate of Oman. Spend your days exploring the desert, going on camel rides, enjoying dinners by the crackling fire and gazing at the stars. Unlike traditional tourist encampments, your private nomadic refuge is put up just for you. Its cosy comfort, stripped down décor and spacious eco-friendly tents melt into the background in complete privacy before being taken away leaving no mark, except of course on your memory!

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ICELAND – A geothermal lesson in full scale

Ice sculptures, lava fields, geysers, waterfalls and cracked earth formed by the forces of nature – when you set foot in Iceland it’s hard to tell whether it is the beginning or the end of the world. One thing is certain however, Iceland is spellbinding (even for the most unadventurous!). You can roam the enigmatic landscape of the Golden Circle, splash around in thermal waters naturally heated to 40°C, take a ride in a dog sled and fly over black deserts and calderas with unpronounceable names. Then suddenly above your head a sweep of colours in shades of green dance among the polar night. Is it a band of elves or trolls? No, it’s the Northern Lights shining with the light of a thousand fires above the lunar landscapes. A sign that things can get heated in the north!

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ZANZIBAR/MNEMBA Island – An island (almost) to yourself for a break where you can switch off completely in the middle of the southern hemisphere’s summer.

Imagine a private island on the unbelievably clear waters of the Indian Ocean. Coral reefs, turquoise lagoons and a tropical forest surround the private villa that is your home, the only accommodation on the island. This is Mnemba, a luxurious and exclusive enclave in the north east of Zanzibar, and it’s the middle of the austral summer. You have all the time in the world to play at being the Swiss Family Robinson on the white sandy beaches, tease the local marine fauna, navigate the different shades of turquoise in a dhow (or a kayak) and revel in a life of leisure. By the end of your stay in Zanzibar, you will be sure of one thing: Paradise (on earth) exists and it can be found here on Mnemba Island. But that’s no excuse to miss out on saying hello to the Big 5 of Tanzania who are waiting close by.

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COLOMBIA – For the pleasure of exploring the new Latino El Dorado

Colombia lends itself to a memorable escape in the middle of winter, giving you the chance to explore its pre-Colombian sanctuaries, touch the enchanting charm of the colonial cities, have an adventure in the zona cafetera and rhapsodise over its arty capitals. Follow the sun’s course to Cartagena and its Caribbean bay surrounded by islands and white sandy beaches. Its smiling people and hypnotic cambia, Colombian rhythm and dance, provide the backdrop and soundtrack to your trip to Colombia*. The place known as Locombia (or crazy Colombia) has all the ingredients to make you forget about the cold wintry weather of the Old Continent for good.

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A CITY BREAK in the Afro-chic Riviera

A CITY BREAK in the Afro-chic Riviera

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The great esCAPE ! 

With Table Mountain as a backdrop, beautiful beaches and a relaxed cosmopolitan atmosphere, it isn’t surprising that everyone wants to head for Cape Town.
It’s a city overflowing with imagination, and without a doubt one of the most creative places to be. Artists, designers and chefs have taken on the challenge of dilapidated buildings with an incredible positive energy that permeates the streets.
A twelve-hour flight from France with no time difference, Cape Town is a year-round destination that will capture your heart.

 

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A vitamin-drenched city.

Tucked between the ocean and the mountain, this city is imbued with the influence of conquests. Its streets are full of energy, and it’s almost as if the pop-up concept was invented here. In fact, things are popping up all over the place. Penguins on Boulder beach. Huts along the main roads. Hip urban cafes selling old motorbikes alongside freshly roasted beans. Art galleries and trendy spaces in Woodstock. Everywhere old factories have been refurbished to become shops or restaurants that in time take their place among the top 50 in the world. At the V&A Waterfront, there is the same influence. With its merchant ships, chic marina and old refurbished warehouses, this district is one of the most popular. And today more than ever.

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The Zeitz MoCAA: a temple to contemporary art

A few months ago, the discovery of the old grain silo made of embellished concrete was the last piece in the puzzle for the city to welcome the largest contemporary art museum in Africa.
In addition to its collections, even the architecture of the building is indicative of Cape Town’s bold character. As if scooped out by a spoon, the 42 tubes that previously stored corn now open onto an atrium measuring 27 metres that is symbolic of the metamorphosis the city has undergone.
 

The metamorphosis began in 1991 with the abolition of apartheid. Although Cape Town has not yet managed to solve all its problems, it aims to be tolerant, open to differences, art and more specifically street art. Some walls are covered with veritable masterpieces of graffiti.

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DESTINATIONS –
EVERYONE HAS THEIR OWN TASTE
And there is something for everyone!

With great places to stay in private houses, relaxed restaurants with white tablecloths and stars to their name, local arts and crafts in chic design boutiques, converted factories and districts populated by a rainbow crowd set in strikingly beautiful natural landscapes, Cape Town is everything at once.

You can find it HERE

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CITY BREAK – Afro-chic places

CITY BREAK – Afro-chic places

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DESTINATIONS
EVERYONE HAS THEIR OWN TASTE
And there is something for everyone!

With great places to stay in private houses, relaxed restaurants with white tablecloths and stars to their name, local arts and crafts in chic design boutiques, converted factories and districts populated by a rainbow crowd set in strikingly beautiful natural landscapes, Cape Town is everything at once.

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Hotels

– Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel –
A stone’s throw from the city centre at the foot of Table Mountain, this hotel is an oasis of calm in the middle of a busy modern world. The rooms look straight onto the mountain and gardens. My favourites are the suites with a private balcony. An old institution that has recently been refurbished, the Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel combines elegance with tradition and luxury. To cap it off, it also boasts two tennis courts, a green, two heated swimming pools, a gym and several restaurants.

– Ellerman House –
This hotel located in the chic suburb of Bantry Bay looks over the ocean, ten minutes on foot from the V&A Waterfront and close to Camps Bay with its trendy beach. Behind its Edwardian facades that are as bright as they are elegant, this hotel is imbued with a muted and classically stylish atmosphere or a more contemporary feel, depending on the room. Works of art adorn each one.

-The Silo –
More than a hotel, The Silo is a work of art. A stone’s throw from the Zeitz, the brand new museum of contemporary art, it has constructed its rooms in an old grain silo. Converted by the British designer Thomas Heatherwick, the entirely concrete premises adorned with windows in the form of giant eyeballs has imbued its rooms with an abundance of colour and baroque-inspired decor. The view over the docks is splendid, the restaurant excellent and spirit of art omnipresent.

And there are many more to explore.

Why not try the experience of a private house?

You have the choice of Cape Dutch farms filled with antiques, chalk white beach huts or futuristic establishments made of steel and glass created by some of the biggest South-African architects. They can be rented empty or with all the commodities you could wish for, to suit you. A vitamin-drenched city.

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Food and drink 

SInventive spaces for coffee lovers and everyone else…
– Biker-shop/ Tribe 112 / Los Muertos Motorcycles cafe and its concept store / House of Machines cafe and Truth Coffee, featuring the enormous retro-futuristic Fabulous Coffee Bean Contraption –

Woodstock/The Old Biscuit Mill and its old flourmill restored by talented architects to make the most of the local treats on offer at the popular Saturday morning food market. Hout Bay for freshly caught and ingeniously cooked fish. Modern destinations backed by Michelin-starred chefs: – Myoga, Bistrot Bizerca, Bistro Sixteen82 –

The classics:
– La Colombe –
Propelled to the top of the best restaurants in the world by the chef Franck Dangereux. And for an ever-relaxed ambiance to match the Cannes local who arrived in Cape Town at the age of 20, The Foodbarn in Noordhoek.

The most fashionable, a real must-visit:
– The Test Kitchen –
By the Michelin-starred chef Luke Dale-Roberts. An industrial ambiance and a veritable flavour laboratory for this award-winning restaurant. In the top 50 restaurants in the world, you need to book very, very far in advance. From the same chef is The Pot Luck Club, a rooftop restaurant/gallery.

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Livestyle

Ten years ago I would not have advised walking around here, but now I actively recommend it! Head for the central Long Street that is bursting with great bars and the surrounding streets that boast bakeries aplenty, such as Charly’s Bakery and Honest Chocolates, cultural trails and graffiti adorning the walls of District Six.
Escape along the roads of Cape Town; whichever way you go there are wonderful surroundings to discover and natural beauty abounds.

Shopping

Whether you go on your own or accompanied by a specialist, discover the trendiest names in the city. On Bree Street: Missibaba for its famous leather bags and Kirsten Goss for jewellery.On Hatfield Street: Okha, the shop for Scandi furniture and Woodheads for its Ugg-style boots. On Long Street, in the City Bowl district and the home of Tribal Trends: Africa Nova for elegant local souvenirs. And of course the unmissable Woodstock. Here, on Saturday mornings, the people of Cape Town flock to the three-floor factory with its mismatched bricks to find local craftspeople selling their wares: ceramics at Imiso, and homemade plant-based soaps at Karoo Moon. At number 66 Albert Road, Woodstock Exchange is the place to find Pedersen + Lennard, the stars of the local furniture industry, and the fashion favourite Made in Maboneng. At number 160, The Woodstock Foundry is home to John Vogel’s modern riempie furniture studio and the popular jeweller Dear Rae. In the same district, you will also find galleries by some of the biggest names in the South African art world including What if the World, Goodman Gallery, Bell-Roberts and Stevenson.

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Venture into nature
In a rental car or with a chauffeur, in a vintage car or on one of the old characterful motorbikes.

Chapman’s Peak to the south of Cape Point to admire the coastal cliffs hollowed out by Italian prisoners of war during the First World War.
Clifton and Llandudno beaches with their white sands and shady rocks overlooked by large houses.
Noordhoek, from where you can gallop along Long Beach.
The tip of Africa that Sir Francis Drake described as “the fairest Cape that we saw in the whole circumference of the earth”.
Kalk Bay (on the east side of the peninsula) is a great place to stretch your legs and enjoy a home-made New York-inspired snack at Tribakery or a glass of wine with an ocean view at Harbour House.
Take a dip at Muizenberg Beach and learn to surf the waves at Surf Shack.

And if it’s a Friday, stop off at the hippy Bluebird Garage Market…

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The adventures of a world tour (V)

The adventures of a world tour (V)

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 Two weeks down… and Jean-Christophe tells us about the start of their adventures!

Who hasn’t heard of Kashmir and its world-famous cloth? It is a mythical region for travellers to explore. With a rich thousand-year history, it is also a natural link between Central Asia and the Indian sub-continent on one of the silk roads. Despite often being jostled between the two giants (India and Pakistan) that neighbour and dispute it, the little local Switzerland is no less warm and welcoming..

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All aboard a houseboat on the peaceful waters of Dal Lake!

Returning to India as a family, we dreamed of discovering the lakes of Srinagar nestled in the Himalayan foothills. September is the ideal time to go. While the sub-continent is still in the grips of the humid monsoon heat, the Kashmir valley enjoys a mild and dry climate.

After several days in the hubbub of Delhi, Amritsar and Jammu, arriving at the shores of Dal Lake feels restorative. Mountains and lush gardens surround the peaceful waters that are home to our houseboat. These houseboats are old transport barges that were transformed into guesthouses in the 60s …

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Although there are hundreds to choose from, only Sukoon feels like a luxury hotel. Our friend Bilal, the owner, welcomes on board us. This boat, which was built by their father, was fully renovated barely three years ago. On board it is calm and full of delights, and the team are devoted to creating a truly tranquil stay.

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Staying here for a few days gives us the chance for some beautiful walks in the Mughal Gardens of Shalimar and Pari Mahal and the temples and forts that dominate the valley. You can also drift along on a Shikhara, the local gondolas that take you along the canals of the old town or to the more verdant areas of the lake that are home to thousands of birds.

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In a high-altitude camp at the heart of the Himalayas

Some time to spare? We made the most of our time and journeyed to the valley of Sunmarg at the very heart of the Himalayas where the Sukoon team had organised a comfortable high-altitude camp! Finding ourselves face to face with glaciers, it was also a chance to roam the mountain pastures seeking nomadic herdsmen. A week certainly isn’t too long to discover this valley and take the time to contemplate its spellbinding lights.

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