Looking for Charly is contagious! Yes a new Travel Consultant is sharing our passion – the same one that makes us all grow. Presenting Gaëlle Bellec who joins our independent experts, attracted by our concept and this overwhelming energy characterizing us, whatever happens around us, nationally or internationally.
Everyone at home… episode 1. Sweden.
How to spend an entire day cocooned at home
in famously laidback Swedish style!
There’s no real translation for ‘Lagom’ pronounced [lar-gom].
It simply means, not too much or not too little, instead choosing a satisfactory middle way of living – minimalist design, natural materials, seasonal ‘bio’ ingredients and a slow pace of life.
Charly’s team would like to talk you through these daily customs and rituals. Wake up slowly with what else but a Swedish exercise session. You’ll find good humor catches on quickly! Try this 60 minute workout – warm up, cardio, weight training, cardio again, stretching and relaxation, led by Veronique and Davina! Then, enjoy a classic Swedish breakfast of: bread, butter, cheese, red peppers, cucumber and ham.
Pass the morning immersed in a fascinating book, wrapped up in a soft blanket. It could be the riveting read Henning Mankell, staring detective Kurt Wallander or, “The 100-Year-Old Man Who Climbed Out the Window and Disappeared” by Jonas Jonasson.
10 o’clock – time for “fika” – coffee and a cinnamon roll, “kanelbullar”, the famous Nordic pastry.
The best recipe book for these: “La Suede à dos de cuillère” by Christine Armengaud, Ed Actes Sud. It includes a fun mixture of anecdotes and recipes.
Time to think about lunch!
Tempted by Jansson’s ‘frestelse’? – the famous potato gratin with herrings – a very popular Swedish dish, usually served at Christmas, but as there’s no real sense of time at the moment, let’s go for it!
Almost 3 o’clock, let’s make the most of the rare spring sunshine! The national sport in Sweden is to get a suntan with the least amount of sun possible, whether sunbathing on the balcony or in the garden. Quick, let’s soak up that Vitamin D! Not forgetting that in Sweden, the “Allemansratten”, access to nature is an absolute right of each individual. The land belongs to all inhabitants of this long country and Suedes make the most of their outdoors…of course for this wondering we must wait, in the meantime the green forest blossoms in our thoughts. The Suedes have a particular affinity with mother nature.
Escape your house in the afternoon whilst watching a Swedish film. Yes, Sweden does have some cool films, like “Millenium”, that will nail you to your sofa whilst you snuggle up to the multi-colored cushions!
And how best to finish the day than seated around the table to delight in tasting some Kottbullars: simple Swedish meatballs!
Tinged with polar magnetism, Lake Baikal and its coating of ice is a unique alternative to the bog-standard winter sports resorts. Skate into the realm of infinity…
You will feel almost euphoric as you cross the lake from west to east, debate the finer points of hockey, immortalise extraordinary moments in snapshots, skate on polished ice rinks, lunch on the pack ice, taste smoked omul and sleep in an ice camp that is the only one of its kind in Russia (and the world!).
By hovercraft, in a 4×4 and on foot you will explore frozen caves and ‘toros’, a mishmash of ice blocks that collide before your very eyes. While you immerse yourself in the frozen expanses of Lake Baikal you will meet local fishermen, visit the Buddhist temples of Irkutsk and explore the colourful wooden houses of Ulan-Ude.
After plunging into a banya (the traditional Russian sauna and plunge pool) you will board the legendary Trans-Siberian Express. Your memories of this trip will be intertwined with a sensation of purity and the great outdoors. Here are our reasons to break the ice.
A 360° dream of ice. An understandable feeling of worry creeps in when you step onto the ice field. Will the glacial icecap really take your weight?
There’s no need to fear. Ice one-meter thick separates you from the waters hibernating underneath your feet, leaving you free to make the most of the puzzling world around you.
You’ll hear the creaking and bumping of the blocks of ice and experience the magic of the light enshrouded with crystals and the air alive with the polar winter and the purity of the elements. And in this beautiful, timeless place sheltered from the world, you will come face to face with the immensity of the spaces of Siberia. It’s a real-life frontier land that John Snow would never dream of leaving.
Your eyes will be drawn to the turquoise veins, the fantastical ice shapes, the stalactites, stalagmites and air bubbles imprisoned in the ice, reminding you that the great contemporary masterpieces don’t have a patch on nature’s creations.
On the agenda:
A day at the southernmost tip of Lake Baikal
You’ll arrive at Irkutsk airport and depart for the southernmost part of Lake Baikal. A hovercraft ride over the ice will take you to the village of Listvyanka. The route will take you along the Circum-Baikal Railway, a unique monument to the architectural engineering of the end of the 19th century.
A day on Baikal’s ice in a hovercraft
Step on board the hovercraft headed to the north of the lake and the village of Maloe More. The whole journey will be on the ice, with a stop off at the sandy Peschanaya Bay, the lake’s best-known spot.
A day on Olkhon Island, the largest in Lake Baikal
Today you are headed to Khuzhir, the main village on Olkhon Island, and cape Burkhan (initially called Shamanka or Shaman Rock). It is considered a holy place for the followers of shamanism. They organise religious ceremonies and make sacrifices in the cave at Shaman Rock.
Lake Baikal, at the heart of the legend
It’s not surprising that the travel writer Sylvain Tesson erected his cabin at the heart of this icy solitude to experience voluntary exile. He said of it: “The cold, silence and solitude are states that will be more precious than gold in the future. On an overpopulated, overheated, noisy planet, a cabin in the woods is like El Dorado.”
Once you arrive in these lands reminiscent of the Ice Age, it won’t take long to understand why Lake Baikal is a “sacred sea” for the native peoples. The Buryats, who are of Mongolian origin, believe that Olkhon Island in the middle of Lake Baikal is the residence of Burkhan (“God” in Mongolic languages). Balanced between Buddhist traditions and Shamanistic beliefs, it is at the centre of innumerable spiritual rites that help the being transcend to internal harmony.
“Baikal should crush a man with its majesty and size; there everything is vast, free and spectacular.
But, to the contrary, it lifts him up.” (Valentin Rasputin).
Your discovery continues:
A day and a night at the Ice Camp
Imagine yourself in an authentic ice camp in the middle of a frozen lake. The magnetically beautiful landscape around you stretches to the horizon. You won’t find any other tourists here. They are all in Red Square. The only people here are a handful of photographers, adventurers and scientists. Only the dull roar of the ice field breaks the spellbinding silence of the white desert. That’s because you are on Lake Baikal, at the outer limits of eastern Russia (or even of the world), far away from civilisation and all your points of reference. The real Siberian adventure, reserved for a handful of travellers, is only just beginning.
A day crossing Lake Baikal to experience the pace of life in a Baikal village
You will make the most of the camp activities and the surrounding wonders before starting your journey to Ust-Barguzin to experience village life. You will cook, walk, share and rest, and if you are the active kind then you have the option to discover the snowy forests of the taiga to look for flora and fauna with an experienced local hunter and wide skis on your feet.
A day along the east coast of Lake Baikal to prioritise your wellbeing
Your options include crossing Chivyrkuysky Bay, swimming in the thermal springs at Zmeinaya Bay and experiencing the waters with their healing properties at Khakusy thermal health resort, where you can draw on the energy of the natural environment.
Lake Baikal? It’s more than a lake: it’s an inland sea Nestled at the heart of mountains, high cliffs and forests, Lake Baikal is a magnet for superlatives. Its surface area (636 km long and 79 km wide) makes it the largest freshwater lake in the world (it’s as big as Belgium!).
And that’s not all. You might not know it yet, but under your feet and the sparkling surface of the ice field are thousands of cubic metres of water leading down into the abyss. Lake Baikal isn’t just one of the oldest lakes on the planet (born 25 million years ago), it is also the deepest in the world (1637 metres deep in some places).
Its huge size and unique biodiversity saw it classed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.
A day in Ulan-Ude, the capital of Buryatia. You will cross the taiga to reach Ulan-Ude where you are invited to visit Ivolginsky Datsan, a group of Buddhist temples and the centre of Buddhism in Russia located outside the town on the breath-taking steppe.
A day and night on the Baikal-Amur Mainline (BAM)
From the town of Severobaikalsk, you will spend a day and a night on board the train on the famous BAM route, one of the longest train lines in the world. Construction started in 1938 and it stretches 4287 km in total. At Tayshet, the BAM meets the legendary Trans-Siberian Express and continues northwards. This line was mostly built by prisoners from forced labour camps, then by volunteers. You will have the chance to see a part of Russia’s history with your own eyes.
The best time to visit: February and March
Around a 13-hour flight from Nice/Paris to Irkutsk via Moscow with Aeroflot
Between €2600 and €4200 for a 7 to 12-day itinerary as part of a group
Around €8000 to €15,000 per person (based on two travellers) for a tailored package
Don’t delay, as spots at the Ice Camp are limited
11am – Wander around Vila Real de Santo António. Not far from the sailing boats moored along the river, the Marquês de Pombal square is the authentic beating heart of the coastal city Vila Real de Santo António. The time has come to lose yourself in the straight white streets of the city before sampling the flavours, colours and local life to be found in the city market hall.
The charms of the Ria Formosa Park’s natural reserve protected by dunes can be found between the land and the sea. On board a solar-powered silent and non-polluting boat you can let yourself be carried away by the beauty of the lagoon ecosystems escorted by the migrating birds and sultan chickens.
You will be torn between dinner at the Grand Salon with its golden years’ ambiance and an authentic Vila Real de Santo Antonio wine bar. While you make up your mind, let yourself be guided by the softness of the night-time air in which you can hear a few notes of fado here and there.
Under the terrace of the Ta Certo Wine bar shaded by the sails, traditional dishes have been redesigned to offer original and simple small plates. Accompanied by a glass of vinho verde and a pinch of Castro Marim sea salt, the stewed or grilled octopus will leave you wanting more.
VOTRE POINT DE CHUTE:
“THE GRAND HOUSE”
The Grand House opened its doors in January 2019, but its history goes back much further. In 1926, the building was the point of passage for the merchants who bought, sold and exported canned fish in the 27 canning factories of Vila Real de Santo António, which was then one of the most prosperous cities in the Algarve and known as Little Lisbon thanks to its Pombaline-style city plan.
–Location : The hotel is located at the heart of Vila Real Santo António on its main street looking over the Gardena River which separates Portugal from Spain (a small ferry provides transport between the two banks). The main square with its church, shops and cafés is located just behind the hotel. San António beach is just a few minutes away by car and the neighbouring town Castro Marim is worth a visit to see its mediaeval castle and impressive salt pans. Seville is 90 minutes away by car and Faro airport is 40 minutes away.
–Style&character : Swiss architect Ernesto Korrodi fully renovated the building to return it to its original form. A talented local company White & Kaki created the interiors. The focus on the glamour of the golden years was achieved through a mix of antiques, colonial design, nautical colours in the public areas and softer colours in the rooms. The old prints, white orchids, panelling and stuccos are flooded with natural light.
– Services&activités : personnel amical et efficace. Les installations sont limitées par la taille de l’hôtel, mais tout est mis en œuvre pour vous offrir tout ce dont vous aurez besoin. Une chambre sert de spa, avec des massages à la demande. À l’ouverture du Grand Club House (fin 2019), il y aura un concept store et un cinéma privé. Une liste impressionnante d’expériences est offerte dont l’équitation sur une plage de la ville voisine de Tavira et un spa en plein air dans la ville voisine de Castro Marim
– Rooms: 30, decorated in soft peaceful colours. The wooden floorboards are adorned with handwoven rugs and ancient chests of drawers, while antique prints and black and white cards line the walls. Shutters and mullions made by Korrodi open onto terraces. The elegant bathrooms which only have showers (with the exception of one room which has a bath) feature black and white tiling and facilities designed by C.O. Bigelow Apothecaries.
– Food&drinks: The Grand Beach Club offers light lunches, from pizzas topped with local figs to salad Niçoise with fresh tuna, while the breakfast buffet providing eggs cooked to order is served in the pretty dining room looking over the river. You can find the perfect Negroni or Tom Collins in the bar, and in the summer they can even be enjoyed in the roof-top bar. For dinner, both a tasting menu and an à la carte menu are available. Don’t miss the red mullet fillet and the razor shell clams from neighbouring Ria Formosa.
HOW TO GET TO VILA REAL SANTO ANTONIO?