Born to be Wild

Born to be Wild

This summer, Southern Africa was on your list of top destinations, and many of our travellers were able to enjoy the best time of year to travel in the region. Indeed, during the dry season, it is easier to spot the wildlife gathering around the rare watering holes. This is also the time of the great migration of the wildebeest. Having said that, other times of year are also conducive to observing baby animals in Sub-Saharan nature. Although the image may be conventional, is this not an experience in itself, and one of the highlights of any safari?

The Lion King.

You will be treated to the sight of lion cubs fighting and playing with one another, or being nuzzled by their benevolent aunts. You may even witness, at dinner time, an initiation into hunting, which consists in killing a small gazelle or baby dik-dik; an enduring lesson, because lions are not supposed to hunt during their first year of life. The most sought-after animal on the continent lives in familial groups, which sometimes include up to fifteen members. These groups consist of two or three brothers and around ten females with their young. As a community, lionesses give birth to their offspring more or less during the same period; they also look after each other’s cubs. A litter can include up to six cubs, but their survival is compromised due to the challenges they face, such as lack of food or the presence of predators. Only the fittest will survive.
The demonstrative behaviour of lions, which can be observed when males rub up against one other, or when females groom themselves, is unique among big cats. Studies show that this helps them maintain strong social bonds. When they are not resting, the males get on with the job of defending their territory, patrolling it and marking it with their scent, whilst producing terrifying roars to communicate with their fellow lions. The sound is so loud you may feel its vibration! And in the Serengeti, you will be able to see many of them, as this region is home to around one lion per square kilometre of land in the second national park of Africa, in Tanzania. The gestation period of a lioness is very short, only 110 days. Most births take place during the rainy season; however, as lionesses reproduce all year round, you may be able to see some cubs, irrespective of when you visit.

Raconte-moi une histoire !

A symbol of strength and wisdom.

QWhether it’s the first or the umpteenth time you come face to face with an elephant, it’s very likely that you will be impressed when these animals, which are at least two metres tall, pass by you, or when a whole herd marches past nearby. You will hold your breath at the sight of a herd crossing the road just in front of you, or even parting around your vehicle. In the eyes of the wildlife, the high 4×4 vehicles are like large rocks or trees, standing there, of no interest and perceived as an obstruction to get around. This species lives in very large, multi-generational groups, composed mostly of females, with the eldest in charge. Every member of the herd looks after the young, during their first five years of life. Community life, founded on mutual assistance and a great deal of love, is remarkable in this species. Quite often, the other females in the family rally around the mothers, to help them protect their calves.
With luck, the highlight of your encounter with these animals will be seeing their young, standing in their mother’s shadow or stealing pieces of tree bark from their elders. You will be filled with wonder when you see them using their trunks to show affection to one another. The highlight of the show is at bath time: these pachyderms take advantage of wet spots to roll around on the ground, covering their bodies with mud, which protects them from the sun and heat, and soaking themselves with water, to hydrate their skin. During the dry season, they use their defences to cross the dried up river beds, thereby creating watering holes where other animals can quench their thirst. These land mammals are non-seasonal breeders, meaning they can give birth at any time of year, following a 22-month-long gestation period, the longest on earth! From the age of 12 years, males leave the clan and then begin a solitary life in the jungle or in the savanna.

INARA-CAMP

One of the largest creatures in the world! 

The rhinoceros gets its name from one of its physical characteristics, deriving from the Greek ‘rhino’, which means “nose”, and ‘ceros’, meaning “horn”. Females only give birth every two to four years, and have only one baby at a time. This allows them to be very attentive and protective, increasing the rate of survival of rhinos. The tragic threat of poaching is ever present, which leaves many young orphans behind. Some people believe that the inside of a rhino’s horn can be used for the preparation of “miracle” products, a theory that to this day has never been proven scientifically. In fact, their horn is made of keratin. It can sometimes break, but then grows back. Females use it to protect their calves from predators: lions, crocodiles and leopards. Young rhinos sometimes remain with their mothers until the arrival of a brother or sister, when they are two or three years old, at which time they have almost reached their adult size and are almost ready to live alone. The baby of a black rhino always runs behind its mother, whereas that of a white rhino walks in front of her.
Black female rhinos have overlapping territories and are not really as solitary as we may believe, unlike male rhinos. During the hottest hours of the day, you will find them lounging in the shade or basking in mud, which they also adore. Very often, you will see birds perched on their heads, called oxpeckers, eating ticks and other parasites. As a matter of fact, in Swahili their name is askari wa kifaru: “the rhino’s guard”. Researchers have discovered that their calls warn rhinos of the approach of poachers, among other things!
Did you know? A male can weigh up to 2500 kilos, and a female up to 1400 kilos, and they can measure up to 4 metres in length. Their gestation lasts 15 to 16 months.

Qui c’est qui joue  ?

And it’s even better from above!

Discover the beauty of the Maasai Mara on board a hot air balloon. Depart at dawn, letting the wind carry you over the tops of the acacia trees or even higher, until you see the curvature of the horizon. The perspective is unique, affording sweeping views over the plentiful fauna living on the vast plains, along glittering rivers and among verdant bushes. You too will watch the sun rise, illuminating these endless lands teeming with life. Spot giraffes grazing on leaves, gazelles leaping across the plains, or enjoy looking for hippos hiding in the water. You will witness the daily rituals of all these species in their wild habitat, and will better understand the challenges involved in the conservation of this fragile ecosystem.

Many young are born in the Serengeti in the middle of summer. October and November are therefore the ideal months to visit the park, if you want to see lion cubs playing, or dishevelled baby zebras or impalas glued to their mothers. See the wildlife closer than you could possibly imagine… Hear the breathing of the water buffalo and the thundering hooves of the gnu, in complete safety with your private guide by your side, all by yourselves, on board your own open-top vehicle.

Some impressive figures:

• The gestation of a hippopotamus can last up to 250 days,
• that of a zebra up to 390,
• and that of a giraffe up to 450!

    3 Charly’s Angels in the home of the Big Five

    3 Charly’s Angels in the home of the Big Five

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    An interview with Simonetta

    Warmth and a contagious energy emanating from a soul in perpetual motion: Simonetta, our travel designer, gives us an interview to tell you about her latest African trip.

    It was a trip that spanned three generations, with three women passionate about Africa who headed to the heart of the preserved wilderness of South Tanzania. This is an article full of surprises, emotions and unexpected twists that will transport you to the as yet unexplored reserves of the African continent that will make your roar with excitement!

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    First of all, why did you choose South Tanzania?

    “South Tanzania was a natural choice for us as its unexplored reserves are quieter than those in the north of the country. Here you experience nature untamed and rich in unspoilt beauty. It is the real, secret and authentic Tanzania, the perfect destination for three women passionate about Africa.”

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    ​​Where did your shared passion for Africa come from? “My love of Africa dates back to my childhood. I must have been 10 when my mother brought a lion cub home that belonged to a wildlife photographer. He left it with us from time to time when he was away with work. But we were so attached to this lion cub that it ended up staying at our house for six months. We couldn’t keep it any longer than that though. We were heartbroken to see it go. A little while later, we took on a Somalian nanny. I think she really gave us the bug for Africa. Our passion from Africa comes from these memories that are deeply rooted in our family history, which became the favourite continent for 3 generations: me, Simonetta (48), my mother (83) and my daughter (21). And so the idea for this intergenerational trip was born out of this passion for Africa that links us together “

    What was the highlight of the trip for you? “There were so many. To be truthful, there were highlights in each safari, day and moment. But if I had to choose one, it would be coming face to face with a family of young lions in the Selous Game Reserve, no doubt because of my fascination with lions. When you find yourself a metre or a metre and a half from lions, you feel like you are discovering your inner child, standing completely alone in front of animal life and becoming at one with nature. You feel moved, and calm. You forget everything. Beyond this powerful feeling, what left a profound mark on all three of us was finding ourselves faced with several generations of lions. There were two males, some cubs and several females, three of which clearly stood out from the group. We were all reminded of ourselves, it was like a nod to us.”

    ​What gave you the greatest thrill? “That would be an unusual encounter with the pachyderms of the Ruaha National Park during a nighttime safari. First, we drove with the headlights switched off before stopping right in the middle of the reserve and the night. Then we started to hear branches moving more and more in the trees. The elephants had arrived. They were all around us. Hearing and smelling the bush evokes a truly extraordinary feeling. Then the ranger lit the torch, which the mother elephant who was standing three metres away from us really didn’t like. She started to trumpet with all her might in the middle of the night. She was in a real temper. Even her babies, who were visibly already very tenacious, seemed to be angry with us. They seemed like giants to us. We kept a low profile, as we were scared out of our wits!”

    Did anything leave you feeling blessed? “Without a doubt the trek with the chimpanzees in the Mahale Mountains National Park. The lodge is located at the heart of a beautiful unspoilt reserve that can only be accessed on a little brush plane then by boat. You are far away from everything there, in a virgin land that is home to one of the last colonies of wild chimpanzees in the world. The crystal waters of Lake Tanganyika are before you, and a mountain covered in thundering waterfalls is at your back. Excitement mounts as you enter the forest. You are straining to detect the slightest movement, the smallest sign, the quietest cry, and the smallest movement of leaves in the trees. And then suddenly, you see them everywhere. They know you are there and stop what they are doing and look you in the eye. They seem like a family. And you don’t move a muscle. It’s as if time is suspended in a waking dream. The walking safari teaches you an unforgettable lesson in humility.”

    What was the strongest sensation you experienced? “Diving and swimming with whale sharks is a formidable sensation! You can find them off the coast of Mafia Island in the waters of Tanzania’s first marine park. Even from the boat you can clearly see the playful whale sharks who glide alongside the boat and raise their heads to catch the plankton. While my mother watched the sea giants from the boat, my daughter and I threw ourselves into the water. Each time we dived down using our masks and snorkels, we found ourselves face to face with a giant marine creature. There must have been 40 or 50 of them of all sizes and shapes around us. We were entranced by their silhouettes, movements, speckled skin and infinite gentleness. It was a world away from Jaws!”

    What was the strongest emotion you felt?

    “We were in our lodge, which was at the heart of the leopard’s natural habitat. A female leopard had just chosen the bungalow next to ours to have her babies. It was both very touching and moving to see a mother leopard give birth just a few paces away from our bungalow. We can never thank Mother Nature and the mother leopard enough for this gift. In addition, we even got our daily dose of adrenaline, as we of course had to be careful not to disturb the leopard and her cubs. In the evening, the rangers took us around the lodge. It was an exclusive experience and a magical sight that only the private lodges in South Tanzania can offer. You feel totally immersed in untamed nature. It is literally Into the Wild”.

    ​​And the most fear you felt ?

    “Contrary to all expectations, the scariest part of our trip to South Tanzania did not involve lions or leopards, but rather a beetle. It’s true! My daughter is absolutely terrified of beetles, so when she found one in the tent she started screaming blue murder. I immediately grabbed a glass to trap the (little) beast and removed it from the tent, but my daughter still needed a moment to recover. She was scared by how black the insect was and its huge size. My mother and I found it hilarious; it made us cry with laughter!… “

    ​​What was the most beautiful moment ?

    “I chose this photo because I think it perfectly captures our three-generational trio and our passion for Africa. It’s a precious picture that will make us nostalgic for this unforgettable trip.”

    What surprised you most?

    “When you visit South Tanzania, you expect to find savannah, brush and the burnt lands of Africa. Against all expectations, we found ourselves surrounded by a variety of colours and unexpected landscapes. It’s not just yellow and gold; it’s also green, wooded and plentiful. The flowering trees of the Selous National Park and the crystal waters of Lake Tanganyika give you the impression of being in a tropical jungle rather than an inlet of the Indian Ocean. For my mother and my daughter, and even for me with my long experience of Africa, it was surprising and wondrous.”

    Do you have a favourite place to stay ?

    Our lodge in the Selous National Park was incredible. It’s an oasis of elegance, serenity and comfort set in the heart of a reserve as big as Switzerland. In this restricted location cut off from the rest of the world, luxury is everywhere. It is in the canvas tents that are spacious, open and perfectly integrated into their surroundings. It is in the showers where you can hear (or see, if you wish to) the grunting of the hippos that live in the lake just a stone’s throw away. It is also in the encounters you have there. The human dimension there is so strong that it entices you away from your accommodation. For example, the general manager of the lodge is passionate about the stars. At night, head to the garden and he will teach you the constellations with a glass in hand. There is no sound pollution, no bother, just sharing, wonder and the immensity of the heavenly canopy. It’s an extra touch of soul experiencing the bush under the light of the stars”.

    Do you have any specific recommendations for travelers wanting to explore South Tanzania?

    “Lots of people ask me what the best time to travel to South Tanzania is. I often say the dry season. But in reality, each season has its benefits. We went during the off-season, which was the beginning of the rainy season. It was a wonderful choice that we didn’t regret. The landscape was very green, and there were fewer people too. The feeling of having the park to yourself is truly priceless…”

    Any last words?

    “A lovely memory from the end of our trip should have the last word in this interview. We were getting ready to head for the airport when a family of cheetahs came to bid us goodbye. There were around ten of them, and they circled the vehicle just a few steps from the runway and settled down, completely at ease. It was as if they wanted to stop us leaving. It’s a moment I will never forget.”

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    CITY BREAK – Afro-chic places

    CITY BREAK – Afro-chic places

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    DESTINATIONS
    EVERYONE HAS THEIR OWN TASTE
    And there is something for everyone!

    With great places to stay in private houses, relaxed restaurants with white tablecloths and stars to their name, local arts and crafts in chic design boutiques, converted factories and districts populated by a rainbow crowd set in strikingly beautiful natural landscapes, Cape Town is everything at once.

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    Hotels

    – Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel –
    A stone’s throw from the city centre at the foot of Table Mountain, this hotel is an oasis of calm in the middle of a busy modern world. The rooms look straight onto the mountain and gardens. My favourites are the suites with a private balcony. An old institution that has recently been refurbished, the Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel combines elegance with tradition and luxury. To cap it off, it also boasts two tennis courts, a green, two heated swimming pools, a gym and several restaurants.

    – Ellerman House –
    This hotel located in the chic suburb of Bantry Bay looks over the ocean, ten minutes on foot from the V&A Waterfront and close to Camps Bay with its trendy beach. Behind its Edwardian facades that are as bright as they are elegant, this hotel is imbued with a muted and classically stylish atmosphere or a more contemporary feel, depending on the room. Works of art adorn each one.

    -The Silo –
    More than a hotel, The Silo is a work of art. A stone’s throw from the Zeitz, the brand new museum of contemporary art, it has constructed its rooms in an old grain silo. Converted by the British designer Thomas Heatherwick, the entirely concrete premises adorned with windows in the form of giant eyeballs has imbued its rooms with an abundance of colour and baroque-inspired decor. The view over the docks is splendid, the restaurant excellent and spirit of art omnipresent.

    And there are many more to explore.

    Why not try the experience of a private house?

    You have the choice of Cape Dutch farms filled with antiques, chalk white beach huts or futuristic establishments made of steel and glass created by some of the biggest South-African architects. They can be rented empty or with all the commodities you could wish for, to suit you. A vitamin-drenched city.

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    Food and drink 

    SInventive spaces for coffee lovers and everyone else…
    – Biker-shop/ Tribe 112 / Los Muertos Motorcycles cafe and its concept store / House of Machines cafe and Truth Coffee, featuring the enormous retro-futuristic Fabulous Coffee Bean Contraption –

    Woodstock/The Old Biscuit Mill and its old flourmill restored by talented architects to make the most of the local treats on offer at the popular Saturday morning food market. Hout Bay for freshly caught and ingeniously cooked fish. Modern destinations backed by Michelin-starred chefs: – Myoga, Bistrot Bizerca, Bistro Sixteen82 –

    The classics:
    – La Colombe –
    Propelled to the top of the best restaurants in the world by the chef Franck Dangereux. And for an ever-relaxed ambiance to match the Cannes local who arrived in Cape Town at the age of 20, The Foodbarn in Noordhoek.

    The most fashionable, a real must-visit:
    – The Test Kitchen –
    By the Michelin-starred chef Luke Dale-Roberts. An industrial ambiance and a veritable flavour laboratory for this award-winning restaurant. In the top 50 restaurants in the world, you need to book very, very far in advance. From the same chef is The Pot Luck Club, a rooftop restaurant/gallery.

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    Livestyle

    Ten years ago I would not have advised walking around here, but now I actively recommend it! Head for the central Long Street that is bursting with great bars and the surrounding streets that boast bakeries aplenty, such as Charly’s Bakery and Honest Chocolates, cultural trails and graffiti adorning the walls of District Six.
    Escape along the roads of Cape Town; whichever way you go there are wonderful surroundings to discover and natural beauty abounds.

    Shopping

    Whether you go on your own or accompanied by a specialist, discover the trendiest names in the city. On Bree Street: Missibaba for its famous leather bags and Kirsten Goss for jewellery.On Hatfield Street: Okha, the shop for Scandi furniture and Woodheads for its Ugg-style boots. On Long Street, in the City Bowl district and the home of Tribal Trends: Africa Nova for elegant local souvenirs. And of course the unmissable Woodstock. Here, on Saturday mornings, the people of Cape Town flock to the three-floor factory with its mismatched bricks to find local craftspeople selling their wares: ceramics at Imiso, and homemade plant-based soaps at Karoo Moon. At number 66 Albert Road, Woodstock Exchange is the place to find Pedersen + Lennard, the stars of the local furniture industry, and the fashion favourite Made in Maboneng. At number 160, The Woodstock Foundry is home to John Vogel’s modern riempie furniture studio and the popular jeweller Dear Rae. In the same district, you will also find galleries by some of the biggest names in the South African art world including What if the World, Goodman Gallery, Bell-Roberts and Stevenson.

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    Venture into nature
    In a rental car or with a chauffeur, in a vintage car or on one of the old characterful motorbikes.

    Chapman’s Peak to the south of Cape Point to admire the coastal cliffs hollowed out by Italian prisoners of war during the First World War.
    Clifton and Llandudno beaches with their white sands and shady rocks overlooked by large houses.
    Noordhoek, from where you can gallop along Long Beach.
    The tip of Africa that Sir Francis Drake described as “the fairest Cape that we saw in the whole circumference of the earth”.
    Kalk Bay (on the east side of the peninsula) is a great place to stretch your legs and enjoy a home-made New York-inspired snack at Tribakery or a glass of wine with an ocean view at Harbour House.
    Take a dip at Muizenberg Beach and learn to surf the waves at Surf Shack.

    And if it’s a Friday, stop off at the hippy Bluebird Garage Market…

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